CHEAP, FAST AND OUT OF CONTROL: ARE YOU READY FOR SOME FOOTBALL?

CHEAP, FAST AND OUT OF CONTROL: ARE YOU READY FOR SOME FOOTBALL?

BRIAN STEINBERG

Food Editor

SHESTERKIN

SHESTERKIN

Super Bowl parties are kind of like Thanksgiving, only in reverse: instead of making a huge meal and passing out on the couch to watch the game, the big event is the game. Most will order take-out pizzas, chicken wings and enjoy their favorite beverage, which is fine. Others will make a big party of the food; preparing finger foods, veggie sides, warm crock pot dips and a sheet cake decorated to resemble a football field.
RUFFIN

RUFFIN

Seth Shesterkin goes buffet style for his Super Bowl potluck feast. “We had 30–40 people last year,” said Shesterkin, 26, a Washtenaw Community College broadcast arts major from Westminster, Calif. “One guy brought 100 chicken nuggets.” Shesterkin honors his Southern California roots with a special crab dip. “It is a pico de gallo with crab meat, a little ketchup and lemon juice. I use fresh hand shell crab, but use precooked canned meat if I have too,” said Shesterkin.
CANADA

CANADA

Cody Alexander, 20, an art major from Hartland, favors dips and goes simple with hotdogs. Jenine Ruffin orders takeout pizza and hot wings, but she also makes a few homemade items. “We have a veggie and fruit tray, and I also like to do a cheese-and-cracker plate,” said Ruffin, 28, a business major from Ypsilanti. “I make a spinach cheese dip made with spinach, coleslaw dressing and shredded cheese.” Alfred “AJ” Canada is all about the chicken wings. Canada, 27, from Ann Arbor, a custodian at WCC, also prefers Lay’s brand potato chips at his Super Bowl party. Canada was not afraid to make his Super Bowl prediction, either. “I am picking the Jets to win,” Canada said after the first round of the NFL playoffs. Some common items that make it on the big game-day-menu are: chips and dip, hot wings, BBQ ribs, nachos, veggies plates, fruit, potato skins, sandwiches, chili and snacks like cookies and brownies. No matter which team wins the game, who performs in the halftime show or how clever and expensive the commercials are, the Super Bowl is about good eats.

Have your gluten-free cake and eat it too

Have your gluten-free cake and eat it too

BRIAN STEINBERG

Food Editor

Julie Rabinovitz displays some of the products of her gluten-free bakery in Ann Arbor. Tasty Bakery produces a variety of baked goods.

BRIAN STEINBERG THE WASHTENAW VOICE

Julie Rabinovitz displays some of the products of her gluten-free bakery in Ann Arbor. Tasty Bakery produces a variety of baked goods.

About 2.25 million Americans are affected by celiac disease. It’s an autoimmune condition that causes damage to the small intestines when sufferers eat foods with gluten, a protein found in wheat, rye, barley and spelt. Once diagnosed, people with celiac disease must not eat any foods with gluten, which can be a challenge considering how many foods contain the protein. “It’s in everything,” said Julia Rabinovitz, owner of Tasty Bakery, a gluten-free bakery in Ann Arbor. “It can even be in French fries and packaged shredded cheese as a coating to prevent clumping. It’s best to keep away from processed foods. Then you know what you are eating.”
Rabinovitz was diagnosed with the disease in 2007. Shortly after that, she started working on her idea to start a bakery that featured gluten-free baked goods. “I have been baking ever since I was a kid,” said Rabinovitz. Her bakery, which she runs out of her home, started in May 2009. She sells her baked goods at the Ann Arbor Farmers’ Market with offerings that include brownies, cookies, muffins, scones, crackers and granola bars. She also makes cakes and pies for special orders. At the market, appreciative customers who eat gluten free inquire about her baked goods. Their eyes light up when Rabinovitz tells them that they are all free of gluten. Businesses like Rabinovitz’s Tasty Bakery can be an oasis for those on a gluten-free diet. Regulars became fans of specific items and they get upset when they are sold out. On the day she was interviewed, she sold out of brownies. But not all of her customers are gluten free. “I really have a nice following of non gluten-free customers,” said Rabinovitz. “I have many say, ‘These are the best brownies I ever had.’” Not all of her gluten-free baking attempts work out, however. “I tried to make gluten-free donuts last year for Hanukkah, but they did not rise,” said Rabinovitz. Rabinovitz is a veteran of eating gluten free, but to the recently diagnosed, a gluten-free life takes some getting used to.
Gluten-free baked goods are on display at Tasty Bakery in Ann Arbor.

TASTY BAKERY COURTESY PHOTO

Gluten-free baked goods are on display at Tasty Bakery in Ann Arbor.

Mike Zinger, a Washtenaw Community College student, was in his third week trying to eat gluten free after being diagnosed. His situation is even more challenging because of where he works, Panera Bread. He also lives in an Italian home with a mom who makes his favorite meal, pasta. “I miss pasta and pizza with friends,” said Zinger. But he is resolved to keep off gluten. “I don’t want all that work going to nothing.” “It is like being an alcoholic and working as a bartender,” said Zinger referring to his job. One of the biggest challenges to eating gluten free is eating out. Zinger is in a band that tours, and he is concerned about eating gluten free on the road. “Chefs know about gluten free and they will accommodate you,” said Rabinovitz. “Ask the wait staff and they will try to work with you.” It is common for people who are gluten-free to desire certain foods that they used to have before being diagnosed. “Pizza and beer were the first things I wanted,” said Rabinovitz. “For most, it’s pizza. I just wanted some fish and chips.” Luckily, several Ann Arbor restaurants offer gluten-free items and grocery stores have started to cater to gluten-free customers by providing a growing special section. Whole Foods even offers gluten-free tours of their stores to showcase the foods they offer. “Zingerman’s Roadhouse has a fryer that is reserved for gluten-free cooking,” said Rabinovitz. “Silvio’s Pizza offers a gluten-free pizza and the Jolly Pumpkin features a gluten-free beer and a gluten-free bun options with their burgers.” Zinger and Rabinovitz are not alone with eating gluten free. Chelsea Clinton, the daughter of former President Clinton and Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, also eats a gluten-free diet. She was recently married and had a gluten-free, $11,000 wedding cake. “It is kind of a blessing being gluten-free,” said Zinger. “I now have to eat healthier.” There are challenges to eating gluten free, but artisan gluten-free bakeries like Rabinovitzs’ can make it a little easier. “You can have your (gluten-free) cake and eat it too,” said Rabinovitiz.

Swapping sugar

Swapping sugar

BRIAN STEINBERG

Food Editor

illustration of dancing gingerbread men.

ILLUSTRATION BY KATE BIZER

Patti Smith, of Ann Arbor writes a beer and food blog. Sarah Smalheer of Chelsea, provides recipes like limoncello, an Italian lemon liqueur, on her blog. Diana Dyer, a nutritionist, cancer survivor and garlic farmer, created a website dedicated to healthy recipes. And Kate Remen-Wait’s blog posted 135 recipes, including restaurant reviews and reports on her weekly farm shares from Tantré Farm. They are all a part of an online group called the Michigan Lady Food Bloggers. The group boasts 106 members, with representation from every county in Michigan. No two blogs are the same, but what these bloggers all have in common is a love and passion for food. Some write about cooking for young children. Others have a local foods focus, while others share travel logs about eating on the road. “What is cool is the diversity,” said Smith. “There is a blogger with a North African focus.” There is also a competitive and food-challenge element to some of the blogs. Others enter national recipe contests, while some take on local food challenges. Some even dare to tackle difficult recipes from famous cookbook authors like Julia Childs and Thomas Keller. Most communicate through each others’ blogs or via e-mail, but some get together for in-person events. The most popular event is their annual Christmas Cookie Swap. “It’s like a nuclear bomb with crumbs everywhere,” said Smalheer, describing their annual cookie exchanges. “We crammed 18 women in my small living room one year.” These cookie swaps work by having people bring a certain number of homemade cookies for trade. “Husbands (and boyfriends) are pleased with all of the great food we bring home from our events, like the huge trays of Christmas cookies,” Smalheer said. The group is also a great source for hard-to-find resources. “I found the caterer for my son’s wedding reception,” said Dyer. “The chef was enthusiastic to do vegan items.” Some bloggers are more active than others and post weekly, while others fall off the radar. “No one has been kicked out for low activity,” said Remen-Wait. The club — as its name suggests — is only for ladies. But how would they know if a guy tried to join the club using a woman’s name? “We don’t know if someone is female,” admitted Remen-Wait, speaking about the identity of some Michigan Lady Food Bloggers. “We are trusting. If someone wanted to post under a false identity, we would not know.” Guys need not feel left out, however. All of these blogs are posted publicly, which means everyone has access to all the content, and anyone can send a comment about the posts.
Try these holiday cookie recipes at your house
Snicker Doodle By Patti Smith 1 cup shortening 1.5 cups sugar 2 eggs 2 teaspoons cream of tartar 1 teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon salt 2 ¾ cups flour 2 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons of cinnamon Mix shortening, eggs and sugar. Then mix the dry ingredients except the two tablespoons of sugar and two teaspoons of cinnamon; combine. My batter tends to be a little dry, so I often put in a dash of Half & Half to moisten it up. Roll into balls. Roll the balls in the cinnamon sugar mixture and put on a cookie sheet that has been greased or, in my case, has parchment paper on it. Bake at 400 degrees for about 10 minutes. Don’t panic when you see them puff up and then flatten out; it’s all part of the charm.
Apricot Ginger-Almond Sandwich Cookies By Brian Steinberg 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 ¼ cups slivered almonds 1 cup sugar 2 sticks unsalted butter, chilled 1 teaspoon almond extract ½ cup apricot jam ¼ inch piece peeled fresh ginger, minced Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. In a food processor, add one cup of flour and the almonds and process for about a minute. Add ½ cup of sugar and the rest of the flour and pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse to form dough. Do not over mix. On a floured surface, roll out the dough to a thickness of ¼ inch and cut into two-inch rounds. Roll the remaining dough and cut out rounds. Bake for about 15 minutes. To make the sandwiches, combine the jam with the ginger. Spoon out a teaspoon of jam between two cookies and coat with the rest of the sugar while the cookies are still warm.
Pecan Snowdrops By Sarah Smalheer 1 cup unsalted butter, room temperature ½ cup confectioner’s sugar 2 cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon water 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 ½ cups chopped pecans Cream the butter and powdered sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer. Add the flour and salt and combine. Add water, nuts and vanilla and combine. Chill dough for an hour. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Pinch off wads of dough and roll into balls approximately one inch across. Arrange on baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes. Prepare a small bowl of powdered sugar. Roll the cookies in the sugar once while still warm, allow to cool completely and roll again.
Chocolate Matzo: Not just for Chanukah By Brian Steinberg 4-6 sheets of matzo (Yehuda brand preferred) 2-3 bars 4 oz Ghirardelli Bittersweet Chocolate, 60 percent ½ cup toasted almonds, walnuts and/or hazelnuts A few pinches of kosher salt Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line two sheet pans with tin foil. Chop the chocolate. Toast almonds in oven or toaster oven for about 10-15 minutes. Make sure not to burn the nuts. Chop the nuts and set aside. Sprinkle the chocolate over the matzo and bake in the oven for two to three minutes, just until the chocolate melts. Spread the chocolate with a rubber spatula over the matzo to create a smooth layer. Sprinkle on almonds and a small pinch of salt while the chocolate is still melted, so it sticks. Let it sit in a cool place. Break into smaller pieces and serve, or for fun pass around a full sheet and have guest break off their own piece. Present in a decorative wrap or a cookie tin.
To learn more: MichLadyFoodBloggers Patti Smiths Blog: palateofpatti.wordpress.com Sarah Smalheer’s blog: unabuonaforchetta.blogspot.com Kate Remen-Wait’s blog: 4obsessions.blogspot.com Diana Dyer’s website: 365daysofkale.com For favorite holiday cookie recipes by The Voices’s Food Editor, check out http://washtenawvoice.com

Thankful Feasting

Thankful Feasting

from yours truly at the Washtenaw Voice
When the winter wind begins to move its way through Michigan, we polar bears accustomed to the bitter temperatures and inches of snow know the best way to survive the season is with some good home-cooked comfort food. That’s because there is nothing better on a cold day than pulling a warm homemade pie out of the oven, spooning smooth mashed potatoes or sipping a bowl of soup — made from the same recipe your family has used for generations. So although you may reserve turkey and stuffing for Nov. 25, there’s no reason to limit whipping up those family recipes to just one or two days a year. Just as we should be mindful to give thanks for our many blessings more than during the holiday season. And when a group of people as diverse as The Voice staff gets together and starts swapping family recipes, some pretty mouth-watering ingredients begin to fly off the flour-caked notecards. We just had to share some of them with you.
Barszcz – Polish soup Josh Chamberlain Every winter, my family drives to Kalamazoo to celebrate the Polish Christmas Eve holiday Wigilia with a special dinner. Family members catch up and embrace, and everyone eyes the mountains of prepared food. No one is allowed to eat, however, until the first star is spotted. This task is given to the younger members of the family, who step out into the frigid December air and look hopefully up at the sky. After the star-spotters have been outside in the snow, this beet soup is the perfect thing to warm them up all the way to their toes. Barszcz (Polish Borscht) 1 lb red beets, cut into small cubes 1 large red onion, diced 1 bay leaf 2 tablespoons vinegar, or 1 tablespoon vinegar and 1 teaspoon lemon juice Cover all ingredients with water in a large pot and boil for an hour. Add salt and pepper to taste. May be served with sliced mushrooms and potatoes, or cold with rye bread.
Early morning cinnamon rolls WENDY OCHOA Contibutor While most people probably associate turkey, stuffing and pumpkin pie with the holidays, I have an entirely different gastronomical delight that I look forward to. On Thanksgiving morning, my favorite thing to do is to grab a cinnamon roll and camp out in front of the fireplace and watch the Thanksgiving Day Parade on TV. For years, my mom made the cinnamon rolls. Then I moved to Louisiana, which makes coming home for the holidays difficult. Necessity dictated that I learn to make these rolls, and ever since they’ve become a popular staple — even to the point where a friend in Louisiana asked me to just make the rolls and not send a gift! Yes, they require yeast and some folks don’t like to work with yeast, but it’s well worth the hassle. Makes 12-18 rolls Dough 1 package yeast 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1/2 cup warm water (not hot) 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup milk (scalded – you can do this in the microwave or on a stovetop) 3 ½ cups flour 1 egg 1/3 cup melted butter Filling 1/2 cup melted butter 3 cups brown sugar 2 to 3 tablespoons cinnamon Raisins or pecans optional In a small bowl, pour the warm water over yeast and then set aside. In another small bowl, pour milk over sugar and salt. Stir and set aside. In a large bowl, mix half of the flour (1 ¾ cups) with the egg and butter. Mix in the yeast mixture and milk mixture. Add the other half of the flour. Add more flour if needed. Knead (you can do this by hand or with the hook attachment on a KitchenAid mixer); let rise. Punch down when it doubles in size. Now the dough is ready to roll out for cinnamon rolls. Roll the dough out to about 1/4–1/2 inch thick. Brush dough with 1/2 cup of melted butter. Then sprinkle the cinnamon and brown sugar mixture on dough. Add raisins or pecans if desired. Roll the dough into a long roll. Cut into 1/2 inch rolls. Place into a greased cupcake tin and allow to rise until doubled. Bake for 20 minutes at 350 degrees.
Cheesy Potatoes ANNE DUFFY Staff Writer Mmmmm, the aroma of cheese cooking on potatoes. Every year my family expects to see, smell and eat the cheesy potatoes that my mother, Betty Lou Duffy, is famous for making at almost every holiday gathering. One year she didn’t make the dish and the cousins all complained and moaned. They actually told her she wasn’t allowed to come next time unless she made them. That was it; my mother never missed a beat since, making sure she always has cheesy potatoes at all gatherings. And now you can too. Enjoy! 2 lbs frozen hash brown potatoes 1 cup diced onion 1 can cream of celery soup 1 lb sour cream 1 stick of melted butter 12 ounces cheddar cheese, grated Mix together in bowl. Grease the bottom and sides of a 9×13 Pyrex dish and add ingredients. Add one cup of crushed potato chips on top before baking. Bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour.
Nutty salad NICOLE BEDNARSKI Features Editor Thanksgiving dinner at my house has always been the traditional turkey and stuffing meal. We set out the fine china at the dining room table and fill serving dishes with gravy, cranberry sauce and the works. But my mom introduced a new twist to the set up a few years ago. I have to admit, when a salad hit the table, everyone sitting was more than confused. As true old-school southerners, empty carbs and dishes that are sure to make us lethargic, football-watching hippos are really the only items on our food radars for Thanksgiving. But this salad gets the job done. It’s nutty and fresh and all kinds of delicious. Salad Two heads of cut romaine lettuce, rinsed and dried 1/2 cup Monterey Jack cheese 3 ounces pecans, toasted 1 ½ ounces sunflower seeds 1/2 cup chopped red onion 1 cup sliced strawberries Dressing 1 ½ cups sugar 2/3 cup white or wine vinegar 2 teaspoons dry mustard 1 ½ teaspoons salt 1 cup vegetable oil 2-3 tablespoons poppy seeds Mix dressing ingredients together. Mix salad ingredients together separately in a large serving bowl and toss in dressing.
Molasses Cookies FRANCES ROSS Contributor For the past few years, I’ve basically taken over the kitchen on the holidays. Dear Mom has never been blessed with the ability to cook very well. She tends to burn food with great ease. So I decided to start my own traditions — starting with molasses cookies. I grew up on molasses cookies from the local farmer’s market. Not only are they delicious, they’re almost idiot-proof. You throw them in the oven and take them out when they smell like cookies. Duh. And if you overcook them? No worries. The jam keeps them nice and soft. They’re just as good the next day. Makes 4-8 dozen 2 cups sugar (plus extra for dusting) 1 ½ cups unsalted butter softened 1/2 cup molasses 2 eggs 4 cups flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 -1 teaspoon salt 2-4 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon ginger (ginger oil also works well if you have it) 1 teaspoon cloves 1/4-1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 1-2 teaspoons vanilla Blackberry or raspberry jam (optional) Preheat oven to 350 degree. Butter cookie sheets. Mix together butter and sugar until fluffy. Add molasses, eggs and vanilla. Mix in spices, soda and flour. Place dough on cookie sheets in heaping tablespoons. Make a little crater in the middle of each cookie and put a little bit of jam in each (about 1/2–1 teaspoon). Bake for 8-10 minutes or until the edges begin to brown. Sprinkle them with a bit of sugar while they’re still hot. Cool for a minute or so before transferring somewhere to cool completely. Store in airtight container to keep them soft for longer.
Polish Pierogis Drew Brodie Contributor This is a favorite holiday food in my family. I remember going over as a family to Grandma and Grandpa’s house before the holidays, and making several batches of pierogis and freezing them to be served during holidays, birthdays and family get-togethers. Every time we see family, we have pierogis and kielbasa — a Polish family tradition since I can remember. Smaczne! Tasty! Makes about four dozen Dough 3 cups flour 3 whole eggs 2 tablespoons Crisco oil 1 tablespoon sour cream 1/4 cup potato water Filling (Potato or sauerkraut are popular substitutes.) Dry cottage cheese mixed with Philadelphia cream cheese to make a ball about the size of a large marble. Combine all the ingredients for the dough in a large bowl and mix completely, sprinkling in flour. Roll the dough out into about four dozen balls. Cover for 10–15 minutes and the dough will begin to rise. Roll out each ball of dough so it’s thin and place a cheese ball in the center. Fold the dough in half over the cheese ball and press the edges together. Place the folded pierogis on a cookie sheet and sprinkle them with flour. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add in the pierogies over medium heat. (Don’t add all the pierogis in at once or they will clump together.) When the pierogis start to float to the top, take them out and let them cool and dry. After cooling, use a large frying pan (with butter) to fry them crispy golden brown. The Polish tradition is to dip them in sour cream as you eat them.
Leftover delights BRIAN STEINBERG Staff Writer I made these biscuits the day after Thanksgiving last year. They go perfectly with leftover turkey to make incredible biscuit turkey sandwiches — or they taste great on their own. Sweet Potato Biscuits Makes about 15 biscuits 2 cups of all-purpose flour 2 ½ teaspoons of baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 8 tablespoons of chilled butter 3/4 cup chilled buttermilk 1/2 cup of sweet potato puree 1-2 tablespoons of melted butter for brushing (optional) Place the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt in the bowl. Slice the cold butter into eight pieces and cover with the flour mixture. Using a pastry cutter, cut the butter into small, pea-sized pieces. Combine the chilled buttermilk and sweet potato puree and mix to create a dough. Dump out the dough on a clean, floured counter. Fold the dough a few times to form, then roll the dough out to a thickness of one inch. Cut the biscuits in a straight up and down motion without twisting. Twisting will seal the sides and prevent raising. Fold the remaining dough and cut until you have used all of the dough. Place the biscuits next to each other, but not touching, on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Bake for 20–24 minutes in a 425 degree oven. Brush with melted butter.

Charcuterie

Charcuterie

Local chef wrote book in the art of preserving meat, fish

BRIAN STEINBERG

Food Editor

Charcuterie is the presevation of meat and fish. Above are some of Brian’s Polcyn’s creations.

BRIAN STEINBERG THE WASHTENAW VOICE

Charcuterie is the presevation of meat and fish. Above are some of Brian’s Polcyn’s creations.

Bacon is back! But for Brian Polcyn, the author of “Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting and Curing,” it never left. Charcuterie is the craft of preserving meat and fish. It is the hotdog at the ballpark, the pepperoni on a pizza, the salami on an Italian sub and the bacon on a BLT sandwich. Charcuterie can also be featured in lavish parties with items like smoked duck breast, prosciutto de Parma (dry-aged ham) and French pates and terrines with foie gras (duck liver) and black truffle mushrooms. “I grew up on sausage and corn beef,” said Polcyn. “I was fascinated with charcuterie when I started training to be a chef. I was lucky to work with a European chef to learn the craft, but no one was teaching this when I started and there were not any books.” He features a charcuterie plate at his restaurants, The Forest Grill, an upscale eatery in Birmingham, and for Cinco Lagos, his moderately priced Mexican restaurant in Milford. “When I got to be a chef, I always had charcuterie on the menu because nobody was doing it. It differentiated me from everybody else,” said Polcyn. When Polycn is not working at his restaurants or being featured on the TV show “No Reservations” with Anthony Bourdain, he is teaching charcuterie at Schoolcraft College in Livonia and working on a follow up to his book. “I made every mistake there was to make,” said Polcyn about his early experience with charcuterie. “A good place to start for beginners is breakfast sausage. That’s just ground pork and spices. Bacon can be made in about six days. Corn beef is just water, salt, aromatics and beef brisket. Corn beef can be done in three days.” Washtenaw Community College (WCC) features a Garde Manger class, CUL 210, where student learn charcuterie.
Brian Polcyn displays one of his pieces of charcuterie.

BRIAN STEINBERG THE WASHTENAW VOICE

Brian Polcyn displays one of his pieces of charcuterie.

“Most students are pretty new to it,” said Paul McPherson, chef instructor at WCC. “We use hot smoking. We heat wet hardwood chips in a pan on the stove and place the meat on a rack and cover it. The meat is fully cooked and the smoke adds flavor.” “Every time we get that smoking, security comes in and thinks there’s a fire,” joked McPherson. Some WCC culinary students really take to charcuterie. “I got the grinder attachment for the KitchenAid,” said Chis Troiano, a graduate of WCC’s culinary program and a full-time assistant to the culinary department. Sanitation and food safety is a major concern for those interested in preserving meats. The main concern is botulism, a type of food poisoning that is caused from Clostridium botulinum bacteria. If left untreated, it could be fatal. Nitrates, a food preservative, are used in many preserved meats, especially cold-smoked meats, for food safety. There has been some concern about possible negative health affect with consuming nitrates. “The purpose of nitrate is to kill botulism, and it gives its cured flavor,” said Polcyn. They are found naturally in the earth and vegetables (celery and cauliflower). There have been studies on nitrites. The studies say that you need to eat two pounds of bacon a day for a year to be affected.” “There is no Michigan charcuterie tradition,” said Polcyn. “I guess there is venison jerky.” With that said, Polcyn takes pride with the charcuterie that he and other chefs are producing here in the US. “I am an advocate to challenge anyone in Europe,” said Polcyn.”We can have a throw down. Here is my challenge. I am not trying to produce prosciutto de Parma. I want to produce prosciutto de Michigan.” Polcyn enjoyed his time on the “No Reservations” show. “It was fun,” he said. “Bourdain tasted my stuff and was like, ‘Man you can be in New York or Los Angeles or Chicago. Your food is so good. Why are you here?’ I said because my family is here. This is where I like to live and it is a beautiful state.” Charcuterie supplies can be found at butcher-packer.com.

Cheap, Fast & Out of Control: The Great Pumpkin

Cheap, Fast & Out of Control: The Great Pumpkin

BRIAN STEINBERG

Food Editor

pumpkin illustration

ILLUSTRATION BY JOCELYN GOTLIB

It’s Fall again, and that means pumpkin season. Farmers’ fields are flush with this large, orange vegetable with some offering you-pick pumpkins, which can make for a fun family outing. Most pumpkins will be reserved for the Halloween jack-o-lantern. There are also giant pumpkins that are grown to enter and win regional festivals. The world record pumpkin was 1725 pounds, grown by Christy Harp of Ohio. Some pumpkins will be sliced, seeded, roasted and strained to make pumpkin puree for pie. But most will use canned pumpkin puree for pumpkin recipes this year. Pumpkin makes more than pumpkin pie, however. This versatile vegetable can be used for both sweet and savory dishes. Italians use pumpkin in ravioli, gnocchi and risotto. The Japanese slice pumpkin for tempura to eat with a dipping sauce or to incorporate into a sushi roll.
The highly nutritious pumpkin seed, called pepita in Spanish, are used in Mexican cuisine in a green sauce using tomatillos and cilantro. And last but not least, pumpkin and pumpkin seeds are used in baked goods and pastries like pumpkin bread, muffins, cakes, cookies and donuts. There is even pumpkin ice cream. Below are but a few uses for the great pumpkin.
Chicken with pumpkin seed sauce
6 large chicken breasts, pounded flat 1 ⅔ cups shelled pumpkin seeds 6 whole black peppercorns 12 ounces tomatillos, husked, rinsed and coarsely chopped ¼ cup chopped white onion ½ cup washed cilantro Juice of two limes 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 3 tablespoons corn oil Pinch of red chili flakes Olive oil for cooking Chicken stock Procedure In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil on high for a few minutes. Place as many chicken breasts that will comfortably fit without crowding in the pan. Brown both sides. Cook the rest of the chicken, and then set aside. Meanwhile place the pumpkin seeds on a sheet pan, and toast at 350 degrees for 10-15 minutes until the seeds are nicely brown. Don’t overcook. Place the toasted pumpkin seeds, the cilantro, garlic, tomatillos, onion, lime juice, corn oil and peppercorns in a blender. Blend into a smooth puree. Add a little water if the sauce is too thick. Add the puree to the sauté pan and bring to a simmer. Scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to deglaze the pan. Add about a half cup of chicken stock. Add the chicken back to the pan with the sauce, and simmer for 10-15 minutes.
Pumpkin tempura
Half of a kabocha-squash (Japanese pumpkin), peeled and sliced into quarter-inch slices. 1 cup of all-purpose floor (can use whole wheat flour or a mix) 1 tablespoon of cornstarch 1-2 quarts peanut oil or safflower oil for fryin Dipping sauce* ¼ cup vegetable stock ¼ mirin ¼ soy sauce Pinch of grated ginger ½ teaspoon of honey or sugar (optional) 1 teaspoon of chopped scallion *can use store-bought sauce Procedure Heat the oil in a heavy bottom pan or deep fryer to 350 degrees. In a bowl, combine the flour and the cornstarch. Add water to the flour and stir until the batter has the consistency of thin pancake batter. Place one slice of pumpkin into the batter to coat, and then carefully add to the oil. Repeat this until you have about 4-5 pieces frying. Fry the pumpkin slices on both sides until they are golden brown. Strain on a wire rack and continue to fry the rest of the pumpkin slices. Make more batter if you need to. For the sauce, combine all of the ingredients. Serve the tempura pumpkin with the dipping sauce.
Pumpkin coconut milk ice cream
2 cans of coconut milk ½ cup white sugar 1 teaspoon freshly sliced ginger ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 cinnamon stick ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ cup packed, dark brown sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 2 teaspoons Grand Marnier, rum or brandy (optional) ¾ cup canned pumpkin puree Toasted coconut flakes (optional) Procedure In a saucepan, add the coconut milk, both white and brown sugar, the cinnamon stick, vanilla extract, any alcohol, if using, and the sliced ginger. Stir and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cover and let the mixture steep for 20 minutes. The idea is to dissolve the sugars and infuse the ginger and cinnamon into the coconut milk. Strain out the cinnamon stick and ginger and discard. Blend in the pumpkin puree. Cover and chill the mixture. When chilled add the mixture to an ice cream-maker and follow the manufacturer instructions. Freeze for a few hours or overnight. Serve toasted coconut. Variation: Add chopped ginger snaps to the mixture before adding to the ice cream maker. Another option is to add chopped toffee candy.

Cheap, Fast & Out of Control: No­­—stir oven risotto

Cheap, Fast & Out of Control: No­­—stir oven risotto

BRIAN STEINBERG

BRIAN STEINBERG

Food Editor

pumpkin illustration
If risotto sounds fancy, it’s probably because it has an Italian name. But it really is nothing more than tasty rice porridge. The key ingredient is starchy short-grain rice called arborio. The starch in the rice is released when cooked with a good amount of stock. The result is a warm, creamy, flavorful, satisfying dish. The second ingredient is stock. It is important to use a good quality stock, because it provides most of the flavor in this dish. Some white wine can also be used to impart flavor. Stock can be homemade, or you can use quality store brands like Swanson, which is recommended by Cook’s Illustrated on PBS. Also, Morgan and York on Packard in Ann Arbor makes chicken stocks that can be found in the freezer section. The process for making risotto usually calls for adding a small amount of stock and stirring it into the rice until the stock is absorbed. Then more stock is added, and the stir-and-absorb procedure is repeated until the rice is cooked and all the stock is used. This works fine, but to make the process a little easier, you can try the no-stir oven risotto method described below. Risotto can be served plain as a simple rice porridge topped with parmesan, or meat, seafood and vegetables can be added to make it a complete meal. Some classic combinations of risotto are wild mushroom, crab and asparagus, shrimp and peas, onion, leek or shallot, pumpkin or lobster. Risotto cakes are another serving option. Leftover chilled risotto is shaped in round patties and coated in bread crumbs. They are then browned in a pan with oil on both sides and can be served with a spicy mayo. A side salad accompanies a risotto meal.
No-stir oven risotto base recipe serves four Ingredients: 2 cups of arborio rice (or short grain white rice) 6 cups of low-salt chicken stock (home made or Swanson brand rec ommended) 1 onion, diced ½ cup of dry white wine Half stick (4 tablespoons) of unsalted butter 3 cloves of garlic, minced 2 bay leaves 1 ½ cups of shredded parmesan cheese Salt and pepper to taste Procedure: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a sauce pan, melt the butter. Sauté the onion for a few minutes, then stir in the rice. Make sure the rice is coated with the butter. Add the white wine and simmer until the wine is absorbed into the rice. Add all of the chicken stock and the bay leaves and simmer until the stock is warm. Transfer the rice to a 9 by 13-inch casserole pan and cover tightly with tin foil. Place the dish into the oven and bake for 30 minutes. Check on the rice. If it looks too soupy, cook it for a few minutes, but note that with risotto, you are not going for dry rice like pilaf. Take the rice out of the oven and remove the tin foil. Mix in the parmesan cheese and add salt and pepper to taste. Variations: Pumpkin and bacon risotto Add one cup of pumpkin puree and three pieces of cooked and diced bacon to the risotto mixture just before placing in the oven. Three-onion risotto Include the white part of one leek, finely diced, and three diced shallots to the base recipe. Sauté the leeks and shallots along with the onions and follow the rest of the recipe. Shrimp and Pea Risotto Peel and devein a half pound of shrimp and thaw 1 ½ cups of frozen peas. Mix the raw shrimp into the risotto as soon as you take it out of the oven. The heat of the rice will cook the shrimp in about five minutes. Add the peas to the mixture and mix in the parmesan cheese.
Risotto cakes recipe Ingredients: Leftover risotto, at room temperature 1-2 cups of panko (Japanese-style bread crumbs), or more depending on the amount of rice Oil for frying (Peanut oil recommended) Spicy Mayo: ½ to 1 cup of your favorite mayonnaise Sriracha chili sauce to taste (found in the Asian section of grocery stores) Procedure: Press the rice into a third cup-sized measuring cup to create evenly size cakes. Shake the pressed rice out of the cup and coat with the panko bread crumbs. Add enough oil to come to one inch in a pan. Heat the oil to just before the smoke point and carefully add the risotto cakes. Cook on both sides until golden brown. Drain on a paper towel, let the cakes cool for a few minutes and serve with the chili mayo sauce. Note: This recipe works with the base recipe and the variations.

Fermented fare at The Brinery

Fermented fare at The Brinery

BRIAN STEINBERG

Staff Writer

David Klingenburger offers a tasty, salty, brine crock-load of fermented-vegetable fun at The Brinery, his local food start up. The Brinery features naturally fermented sauerkraut, kimchi, cucumber pickles and turnips for local restaurants, grocers and citizens at his booth at the Ann Arbor Farmers’ Market. “I have been making fermented veggies for years at Tantré Farms where I worked,” said Klingenburger. “All over the world, most cultures include some type of cultured, fermented food with meals like cheese, salami, yogurt or pickles. I am trying to reintroduce naturally fermented vegetables, which have a place on every meal.” His passion for fermenting foods led him to turn his interest into a business, which he launched in January. Since then, Klingenburger has been busy chopping and salting cabbage and other vegetables to go into five-gallon tubs where they sit and develop distinctive, fermented flavors. The process of fermenting vegetables involves the use of lactobacillus, a bacteria present in fermented foods like wine, cheese, chocolate, sourdough breads and vegetable ferments like Klingenburger’s kimchi, which helps breaks down sugars to create lactic acid. A saltwater brine covers the vegetables, and the lactobacillus creates a highly acidic environment, which allows vegetables like cabbage to sit out for weeks, or even months, safely without refrigeration or risk of spoilage. “Cheese, for example, was created to preserve milk for months or even years,” said Klingenburger. The longer the vegetables stay at room temperature in the brine and ferments, the more that complex flavors develop. The ideal temperature for most fermentation is 60-70 degrees, which is usually the temperature of a basement, a root cellar or caves like the ones used for fermenting cheese in France. Klingenburger’s kimchi only sits out to ferment for one or two days, while his sauerkraut sits for six weeks or longer. Naturally fermented vegetables, unlike vinegar pickles, or cooked, jarred vegetables, only use a salt-and-water brine. The vegetables are not cooked. In fact, they are considered raw, so naturally fermented foods maintain their vitamins and nutrients. “They go with everything: eggs, rice, burgers, pulled pork,” said Klingenburger. “These fermented foods can be on fancy plates with wine and cheese, but their roots are in old-world peasant food.” The Brinery’s fermented vegetables fit right at home with both street food and upscale dining. Its food cart, labeled “Eat,” is at the Ann Arbor Farmers’ Market and features The Brinery’s kimchi with a popular pulled-pork sandwich. And Zingerman’s Roadhouse uses the kimchi with a salmon dish. The Lark Restaurant in West Bloomfield, with TV’s “Top Chef” contestant Chef John Somerville, uses Klingenburger’s kimchi with a fiddlehead fern and white asparagus bisque. “I like to use as much locally grown produce as possible,” said Somerville. “Today I sampled the turnips. They had an earthy taste, and great crunch. In November, I planned to use the sauerkraut.” The Brinery is a one-man show with Klingenburger preparing, testing, tasting, jarring, selling and delivering the many fermentated products he offers. Every now and then, a friend or food enthusiast volunteers to help out, but for the most part he does all of the work. Klingenburger has big plans. He is in the process of moving into a larger space, which will allow him to house 1,500 gallons of fermented vegetables. He currently uses five-gallon buckets to store his ferments, but he hopes to upgrade to 55-gallon drums, and eventually use 450-gallon stainless steel vats, which are used in the wine making industry, to house even larger batches of Brinery staples like sauerkraut. He is also planning to offer a fermented vegetable community supported agriculture (CSA) membership program in November, where people can sign up, and receive a jar of fermented vegetables a week. Klingenburger also has a goal to get The Brinery in every co-op and grocer in Ann Arbor. He encourages people to try to ferment vegetables at home, which he admits can be a little intimidating for beginners. “People should not be afraid if (the vegetables) go bad,” said Klingenburger. “As long as the vegetables are under the brine, they should be fine.”

Cheap, Fast & Out of Control: Taco Night

Cheap, Fast &Out of Control:

taco night graphic Brian Steinberg

BRIAN STEINBERG

Staff Writer

Tacos have come a long way from the grade school lunch line. They are cheap, fun to make, provide infinite variety and they work well for both casual meals or to impress a date. One idea is to go Tex-Mex style with crunchy shells, cooked hamburger with taco seasoning, topped with sour cream, cheese, chunky salsa and shredded lettuce. Another way to go is Mexican taqueria style with classics like chorizo (spicy Mexican sausage), chicken (pollo) and steak. These tacos are served simple with a lime wedge, chopped onions, red or green salsa and cilantro. Diced avocado makes a nice addition. Then there are the upscale tacos made with lobster, duck and sushi-grade tuna, which one might see at restaurants with dishes cooked by celebrity chef Rick Bayless, winner of Top Chef Master. A cabbage-and-corn salad with a citrus dressing compliments a taco meal, or one could simply have more tacos. Each of these recipes works with crunchy corn, soft white, yellow, blue corn or wheat tortillas. You can use store-bought tortillas or you can make your own with masa harina (fine corn flour) and a tortilla press. Make one kind of the taco filling listed below, or prepare a few for a variety. Have fun with the fillings and toppings. Fish tacos have become popular with use of all sorts of fish like salmon, and white fish like pollack, cod or halibut. Fish can be lightly coated in flour and fried or sautéed. Pastrami tacos have also become a popular offering at taco food trucks. For a vegetarian option, substitute pinto or black beans for these recipes.

Recipies

Tex-Mex beef tacos
1 pound of lean ground beef 1 packet of taco seasoning 1 white onion diced 1 can of pinto beans (optional) 1 jar of thick tomato salsa ¼ cup of sour cream 1-2 limes cut in wedges 1 cup of shredded cheddar or jack cheese 1 cup of shredded lettuce 6-8 crunchy taco shells Heat the ground beef in a large skillet until brown. Add the spice mix and a quarter cup of water and cook until the water reduces, about 10 minutes. Add the ground beef mixture to the taco shell and top with any and all of the toppings. Squeeze some lime juice on top.
Taqueria style
Each of these taco for this style are served with chopped cilantro, raw diced onions, salsa and a lime wedge. Recommended: Frontera Brand green tomatillo salsa and red salsa chipotle with roasted tomatillo.
Chicken Tacos
1 cup of cooked, shredded chicken 2 cloves of garlic, chopped 2 tomatoes, diced Juice of one lime ½ teaspoon of chili powder 1 tablespoon of peanut oil or olive oil 10-15 taco shells Heat the oil in a pan. Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds. Add the chicken, chili powder and lime juice and stir. Simmer until the mixture is warm. Serve one-to-two tablespoons of filling per soft wheat or corn tortilla and top with some onion, cilantro, lime juice and salsa.
Shrimp variation
Substitute 8-12 ounces of peeled and deveined shrimp. Then chop into a medium dice. Cook the shrimp just until they turn pink.
Chorizo
1 pound of ground chorizo sausage 1 medium onion, diced 1 clove of garlic In a pan, heat the sausage on medium high until the fat starts to render out, about five minutes. Add the onion and cook for five minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another 30 seconds. Take off the heat and serve.
Steak or pork
1 pound of sirloin, top round or pork loin 1 tablespoon oil for cooking
Marinade
½ cup of diced pineapple Juice of one lime 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 cloves of garlic minced 1 tablespoon of chipotle chili sauce Salt and pepper to taste Place the steak in a glass container. Combine the marinade ingredients. Spread them over the steak. Cover the container with plastic and marinate for two hours in the refrigerator. Remove the marinade from the meat and discard. Dice the steak into small cubes. Heat the oil in a pan, and brown the cubes.
Citrus cabbage slaw
½ small cabbage, shredded (can use both green and purple cabbage) 1 cup corn kernels ½ cup fresh-squeezed orange juice 1 jalapeno, seeded and chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon of honey (optional) Salt and black pepper to taste Mix all of the ingredients and let sit for 30 minutes to blend the flavors. Serve on the side with tacos.

TAILGATERS: A MAIZE-AND-BLUE BUFFET

TAILGATERS:

A MAIZE-AND-BLUE BUFFET

BRIAN STEINBERG

Contributor

Happy group of tailgaters

BRAIN STEINGBERG WASHTENAW VOICE

It’s the first game of the football season for the University of Michigan, and thousands of food-and-drink loving Wolverine fans were camped outside the Big House for some tailgate eats. Michigan was playing University of Connecticut. There was a carnival-like atmosphere at the Pioneer High School parking lot, where clusters of fans sat around tents, tables were full of food and all types of BBQ grills could be seen. Tailgaters seemed to be a good-natured, generous group. They freely offer both food and drink to any passerby who takes an interest in their cooking. The crowd is a sea of the maize-and-blue colors of University of Michigan. Many are playing a popular tailgate beanbag toss game. This game can be played with one hand to free up the other for a drink or a hotdog, making it an ideal tailgater activity. Grills were sizzling with the classic picnic/tailgate fair of burgers and hotdogs. But tailgate food isn’t just burgers and dogs. A closer look shows more ambitious offerings. Justin, a season ticket holder, said he likes to eat well at the games. “I made a New York strip steak with a Jack Daniel’s marinade, baked potatoes and I am grilling some asparagus,” said Justin. Further down the tent row was Esteban, manning a large maize and blue-painted, dual-compartment grill. One side was full of a dozen pieces of grilling chicken, and on the other side was a large tin of macaroni and cheese.
Happy tailgater

BRAIN STEINGBERG WASHTENAW VOICE

There were other items on the table next to the grill, like grilled ham steaks topped with pineapple rings. Further down the lawn manning another grill was a self-professed Notre Dame fan. He was sporting a Notre Dame foldout chair, and noticeably was one of the only people in the crowd not wearing the ubiquitous maize-and-blue colors. He joked about his covert team loyalty amongst Wolverine fans while flipping burgers. His group of fellow tailgaters prepared homemade peanut butter cookies to accompany their grilled fair. Away from the crowds of the Pioneer High School on neighboring side streets were smaller, intimate gatherings. Many area residents located near the stadium sold parking and space in their yards for football goers. About three blocks from the stadium, UM alumni Steve and Linda Hasting and Tim and Sharon Sherrow set out a cart table and chairs where they enjoyed their own tailgate food. On the table were Scotch eggs, which are hard-boiled eggs that are wrapped in sausage and breadcrumbs and baked. There was also a fresh fruit salad, and dish Linda called “Michigan Caviar.”
Bowl of food

BRAIN STEINGBERG WASHTENAW VOICE

Michigan caviar is a sweet bean and corn relish that is served with corn chips. They drank red wine that Steve said his son made. Also on the tables was a tray of miniature, fresh-baked muffins. The house they set up in front of belongs to their friend, who gives them access to a full kitchen and not just a BBQ grill. This explained all of the fresh-baked items like the muffins and scotch eggs. The crowd thinned out the further away one gets from the stadium. Eventually, all tailgate parties gave way to neighborhoods with empty lawns. A lone boy sat in front of his house at a table selling lemonade and cookies hoping to attract some business from the handful of foot traffic to the game. Walk a few more blocks away from Michigan Stadium, and all signs of a football game that hosted 109,000 people are gone.