CHEAP, FAST AND OUT OF CONTROL: ARE YOU READY FOR SOME FOOTBALL?
CHEAP, FAST AND OUT OF CONTROL: ARE YOU READY FOR SOME FOOTBALL?
Have your gluten-free cake and eat it too
BRIAN STEINBERG THE WASHTENAW VOICE
Julie Rabinovitz displays some of the products of her gluten-free bakery in Ann Arbor. Tasty Bakery produces a variety of baked goods.
TASTY BAKERY COURTESY PHOTO
Gluten-free baked goods are on display at Tasty Bakery in Ann Arbor.
Barszcz – Polish soup Josh Chamberlain Every winter, my family drives to Kalamazoo to celebrate the Polish Christmas Eve holiday Wigilia with a special dinner. Family members catch up and embrace, and everyone eyes the mountains of prepared food. No one is allowed to eat, however, until the first star is spotted. This task is given to the younger members of the family, who step out into the frigid December air and look hopefully up at the sky. After the star-spotters have been outside in the snow, this beet soup is the perfect thing to warm them up all the way to their toes. Barszcz (Polish Borscht) 1 lb red beets, cut into small cubes 1 large red onion, diced 1 bay leaf 2 tablespoons vinegar, or 1 tablespoon vinegar and 1 teaspoon lemon juice Cover all ingredients with water in a large pot and boil for an hour. Add salt and pepper to taste. May be served with sliced mushrooms and potatoes, or cold with rye bread.
Early morning cinnamon rolls WENDY OCHOA Contibutor While most people probably associate turkey, stuffing and pumpkin pie with the holidays, I have an entirely different gastronomical delight that I look forward to. On Thanksgiving morning, my favorite thing to do is to grab a cinnamon roll and camp out in front of the fireplace and watch the Thanksgiving Day Parade on TV. For years, my mom made the cinnamon rolls. Then I moved to Louisiana, which makes coming home for the holidays difficult. Necessity dictated that I learn to make these rolls, and ever since they’ve become a popular staple — even to the point where a friend in Louisiana asked me to just make the rolls and not send a gift! Yes, they require yeast and some folks don’t like to work with yeast, but it’s well worth the hassle. Makes 12-18 rolls Dough 1 package yeast 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1/2 cup warm water (not hot) 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup milk (scalded – you can do this in the microwave or on a stovetop) 3 ½ cups flour 1 egg 1/3 cup melted butter Filling 1/2 cup melted butter 3 cups brown sugar 2 to 3 tablespoons cinnamon Raisins or pecans optional In a small bowl, pour the warm water over yeast and then set aside. In another small bowl, pour milk over sugar and salt. Stir and set aside. In a large bowl, mix half of the flour (1 ¾ cups) with the egg and butter. Mix in the yeast mixture and milk mixture. Add the other half of the flour. Add more flour if needed. Knead (you can do this by hand or with the hook attachment on a KitchenAid mixer); let rise. Punch down when it doubles in size. Now the dough is ready to roll out for cinnamon rolls. Roll the dough out to about 1/4–1/2 inch thick. Brush dough with 1/2 cup of melted butter. Then sprinkle the cinnamon and brown sugar mixture on dough. Add raisins or pecans if desired. Roll the dough into a long roll. Cut into 1/2 inch rolls. Place into a greased cupcake tin and allow to rise until doubled. Bake for 20 minutes at 350 degrees.
Cheesy Potatoes ANNE DUFFY Staff Writer Mmmmm, the aroma of cheese cooking on potatoes. Every year my family expects to see, smell and eat the cheesy potatoes that my mother, Betty Lou Duffy, is famous for making at almost every holiday gathering. One year she didn’t make the dish and the cousins all complained and moaned. They actually told her she wasn’t allowed to come next time unless she made them. That was it; my mother never missed a beat since, making sure she always has cheesy potatoes at all gatherings. And now you can too. Enjoy! 2 lbs frozen hash brown potatoes 1 cup diced onion 1 can cream of celery soup 1 lb sour cream 1 stick of melted butter 12 ounces cheddar cheese, grated Mix together in bowl. Grease the bottom and sides of a 9×13 Pyrex dish and add ingredients. Add one cup of crushed potato chips on top before baking. Bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour.
Nutty salad NICOLE BEDNARSKI Features Editor Thanksgiving dinner at my house has always been the traditional turkey and stuffing meal. We set out the fine china at the dining room table and fill serving dishes with gravy, cranberry sauce and the works. But my mom introduced a new twist to the set up a few years ago. I have to admit, when a salad hit the table, everyone sitting was more than confused. As true old-school southerners, empty carbs and dishes that are sure to make us lethargic, football-watching hippos are really the only items on our food radars for Thanksgiving. But this salad gets the job done. It’s nutty and fresh and all kinds of delicious. Salad Two heads of cut romaine lettuce, rinsed and dried 1/2 cup Monterey Jack cheese 3 ounces pecans, toasted 1 ½ ounces sunflower seeds 1/2 cup chopped red onion 1 cup sliced strawberries Dressing 1 ½ cups sugar 2/3 cup white or wine vinegar 2 teaspoons dry mustard 1 ½ teaspoons salt 1 cup vegetable oil 2-3 tablespoons poppy seeds Mix dressing ingredients together. Mix salad ingredients together separately in a large serving bowl and toss in dressing.
Molasses Cookies FRANCES ROSS Contributor For the past few years, I’ve basically taken over the kitchen on the holidays. Dear Mom has never been blessed with the ability to cook very well. She tends to burn food with great ease. So I decided to start my own traditions — starting with molasses cookies. I grew up on molasses cookies from the local farmer’s market. Not only are they delicious, they’re almost idiot-proof. You throw them in the oven and take them out when they smell like cookies. Duh. And if you overcook them? No worries. The jam keeps them nice and soft. They’re just as good the next day. Makes 4-8 dozen 2 cups sugar (plus extra for dusting) 1 ½ cups unsalted butter softened 1/2 cup molasses 2 eggs 4 cups flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 -1 teaspoon salt 2-4 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon ginger (ginger oil also works well if you have it) 1 teaspoon cloves 1/4-1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 1-2 teaspoons vanilla Blackberry or raspberry jam (optional) Preheat oven to 350 degree. Butter cookie sheets. Mix together butter and sugar until fluffy. Add molasses, eggs and vanilla. Mix in spices, soda and flour. Place dough on cookie sheets in heaping tablespoons. Make a little crater in the middle of each cookie and put a little bit of jam in each (about 1/2–1 teaspoon). Bake for 8-10 minutes or until the edges begin to brown. Sprinkle them with a bit of sugar while they’re still hot. Cool for a minute or so before transferring somewhere to cool completely. Store in airtight container to keep them soft for longer.
Polish Pierogis Drew Brodie Contributor This is a favorite holiday food in my family. I remember going over as a family to Grandma and Grandpa’s house before the holidays, and making several batches of pierogis and freezing them to be served during holidays, birthdays and family get-togethers. Every time we see family, we have pierogis and kielbasa — a Polish family tradition since I can remember. Smaczne! Tasty! Makes about four dozen Dough 3 cups flour 3 whole eggs 2 tablespoons Crisco oil 1 tablespoon sour cream 1/4 cup potato water Filling (Potato or sauerkraut are popular substitutes.) Dry cottage cheese mixed with Philadelphia cream cheese to make a ball about the size of a large marble. Combine all the ingredients for the dough in a large bowl and mix completely, sprinkling in flour. Roll the dough out into about four dozen balls. Cover for 10–15 minutes and the dough will begin to rise. Roll out each ball of dough so it’s thin and place a cheese ball in the center. Fold the dough in half over the cheese ball and press the edges together. Place the folded pierogis on a cookie sheet and sprinkle them with flour. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add in the pierogies over medium heat. (Don’t add all the pierogis in at once or they will clump together.) When the pierogis start to float to the top, take them out and let them cool and dry. After cooling, use a large frying pan (with butter) to fry them crispy golden brown. The Polish tradition is to dip them in sour cream as you eat them.
Leftover delights BRIAN STEINBERG Staff Writer I made these biscuits the day after Thanksgiving last year. They go perfectly with leftover turkey to make incredible biscuit turkey sandwiches — or they taste great on their own. Sweet Potato Biscuits Makes about 15 biscuits 2 cups of all-purpose flour 2 ½ teaspoons of baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 8 tablespoons of chilled butter 3/4 cup chilled buttermilk 1/2 cup of sweet potato puree 1-2 tablespoons of melted butter for brushing (optional) Place the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt in the bowl. Slice the cold butter into eight pieces and cover with the flour mixture. Using a pastry cutter, cut the butter into small, pea-sized pieces. Combine the chilled buttermilk and sweet potato puree and mix to create a dough. Dump out the dough on a clean, floured counter. Fold the dough a few times to form, then roll the dough out to a thickness of one inch. Cut the biscuits in a straight up and down motion without twisting. Twisting will seal the sides and prevent raising. Fold the remaining dough and cut until you have used all of the dough. Place the biscuits next to each other, but not touching, on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Bake for 20–24 minutes in a 425 degree oven. Brush with melted butter.
Local chef wrote book in the art of preserving meat, fish
BRIAN STEINBERG THE WASHTENAW VOICE
Charcuterie is the presevation of meat and fish. Above are some of Brian’s Polcyn’s creations.
BRIAN STEINBERG THE WASHTENAW VOICE
Brian Polcyn displays one of his pieces of charcuterie.
Cheap, Fast & Out of Control: The Great Pumpkin
ILLUSTRATION BY JOCELYN GOTLIB
Chicken with pumpkin seed sauce6 large chicken breasts, pounded flat 1 ⅔ cups shelled pumpkin seeds 6 whole black peppercorns 12 ounces tomatillos, husked, rinsed and coarsely chopped ¼ cup chopped white onion ½ cup washed cilantro Juice of two limes 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 3 tablespoons corn oil Pinch of red chili flakes Olive oil for cooking Chicken stock Procedure In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil on high for a few minutes. Place as many chicken breasts that will comfortably fit without crowding in the pan. Brown both sides. Cook the rest of the chicken, and then set aside. Meanwhile place the pumpkin seeds on a sheet pan, and toast at 350 degrees for 10-15 minutes until the seeds are nicely brown. Don’t overcook. Place the toasted pumpkin seeds, the cilantro, garlic, tomatillos, onion, lime juice, corn oil and peppercorns in a blender. Blend into a smooth puree. Add a little water if the sauce is too thick. Add the puree to the sauté pan and bring to a simmer. Scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to deglaze the pan. Add about a half cup of chicken stock. Add the chicken back to the pan with the sauce, and simmer for 10-15 minutes.
Pumpkin tempuraHalf of a kabocha-squash (Japanese pumpkin), peeled and sliced into quarter-inch slices. 1 cup of all-purpose floor (can use whole wheat flour or a mix) 1 tablespoon of cornstarch 1-2 quarts peanut oil or safflower oil for fryin Dipping sauce* ¼ cup vegetable stock ¼ mirin ¼ soy sauce Pinch of grated ginger ½ teaspoon of honey or sugar (optional) 1 teaspoon of chopped scallion *can use store-bought sauce Procedure Heat the oil in a heavy bottom pan or deep fryer to 350 degrees. In a bowl, combine the flour and the cornstarch. Add water to the flour and stir until the batter has the consistency of thin pancake batter. Place one slice of pumpkin into the batter to coat, and then carefully add to the oil. Repeat this until you have about 4-5 pieces frying. Fry the pumpkin slices on both sides until they are golden brown. Strain on a wire rack and continue to fry the rest of the pumpkin slices. Make more batter if you need to. For the sauce, combine all of the ingredients. Serve the tempura pumpkin with the dipping sauce.
Pumpkin coconut milk ice cream2 cans of coconut milk ½ cup white sugar 1 teaspoon freshly sliced ginger ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 cinnamon stick ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ cup packed, dark brown sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 2 teaspoons Grand Marnier, rum or brandy (optional) ¾ cup canned pumpkin puree Toasted coconut flakes (optional) Procedure In a saucepan, add the coconut milk, both white and brown sugar, the cinnamon stick, vanilla extract, any alcohol, if using, and the sliced ginger. Stir and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cover and let the mixture steep for 20 minutes. The idea is to dissolve the sugars and infuse the ginger and cinnamon into the coconut milk. Strain out the cinnamon stick and ginger and discard. Blend in the pumpkin puree. Cover and chill the mixture. When chilled add the mixture to an ice cream-maker and follow the manufacturer instructions. Freeze for a few hours or overnight. Serve toasted coconut. Variation: Add chopped ginger snaps to the mixture before adding to the ice cream maker. Another option is to add chopped toffee candy.
Cheap, Fast & Out of Control: No—stir oven risotto
Fermented fare at The Brinery
Staff WriterDavid Klingenburger offers a tasty, salty, brine crock-load of fermented-vegetable fun at The Brinery, his local food start up. The Brinery features naturally fermented sauerkraut, kimchi, cucumber pickles and turnips for local restaurants, grocers and citizens at his booth at the Ann Arbor Farmers’ Market. “I have been making fermented veggies for years at Tantré Farms where I worked,” said Klingenburger. “All over the world, most cultures include some type of cultured, fermented food with meals like cheese, salami, yogurt or pickles. I am trying to reintroduce naturally fermented vegetables, which have a place on every meal.” His passion for fermenting foods led him to turn his interest into a business, which he launched in January. Since then, Klingenburger has been busy chopping and salting cabbage and other vegetables to go into five-gallon tubs where they sit and develop distinctive, fermented flavors. The process of fermenting vegetables involves the use of lactobacillus, a bacteria present in fermented foods like wine, cheese, chocolate, sourdough breads and vegetable ferments like Klingenburger’s kimchi, which helps breaks down sugars to create lactic acid. A saltwater brine covers the vegetables, and the lactobacillus creates a highly acidic environment, which allows vegetables like cabbage to sit out for weeks, or even months, safely without refrigeration or risk of spoilage. “Cheese, for example, was created to preserve milk for months or even years,” said Klingenburger. The longer the vegetables stay at room temperature in the brine and ferments, the more that complex flavors develop. The ideal temperature for most fermentation is 60-70 degrees, which is usually the temperature of a basement, a root cellar or caves like the ones used for fermenting cheese in France. Klingenburger’s kimchi only sits out to ferment for one or two days, while his sauerkraut sits for six weeks or longer. Naturally fermented vegetables, unlike vinegar pickles, or cooked, jarred vegetables, only use a salt-and-water brine. The vegetables are not cooked. In fact, they are considered raw, so naturally fermented foods maintain their vitamins and nutrients. “They go with everything: eggs, rice, burgers, pulled pork,” said Klingenburger. “These fermented foods can be on fancy plates with wine and cheese, but their roots are in old-world peasant food.” The Brinery’s fermented vegetables fit right at home with both street food and upscale dining. Its food cart, labeled “Eat,” is at the Ann Arbor Farmers’ Market and features The Brinery’s kimchi with a popular pulled-pork sandwich. And Zingerman’s Roadhouse uses the kimchi with a salmon dish. The Lark Restaurant in West Bloomfield, with TV’s “Top Chef” contestant Chef John Somerville, uses Klingenburger’s kimchi with a fiddlehead fern and white asparagus bisque. “I like to use as much locally grown produce as possible,” said Somerville. “Today I sampled the turnips. They had an earthy taste, and great crunch. In November, I planned to use the sauerkraut.” The Brinery is a one-man show with Klingenburger preparing, testing, tasting, jarring, selling and delivering the many fermentated products he offers. Every now and then, a friend or food enthusiast volunteers to help out, but for the most part he does all of the work. Klingenburger has big plans. He is in the process of moving into a larger space, which will allow him to house 1,500 gallons of fermented vegetables. He currently uses five-gallon buckets to store his ferments, but he hopes to upgrade to 55-gallon drums, and eventually use 450-gallon stainless steel vats, which are used in the wine making industry, to house even larger batches of Brinery staples like sauerkraut. He is also planning to offer a fermented vegetable community supported agriculture (CSA) membership program in November, where people can sign up, and receive a jar of fermented vegetables a week. Klingenburger also has a goal to get The Brinery in every co-op and grocer in Ann Arbor. He encourages people to try to ferment vegetables at home, which he admits can be a little intimidating for beginners. “People should not be afraid if (the vegetables) go bad,” said Klingenburger. “As long as the vegetables are under the brine, they should be fine.”
Cheap, Fast &Out of Control:
Staff WriterTacos have come a long way from the grade school lunch line. They are cheap, fun to make, provide infinite variety and they work well for both casual meals or to impress a date. One idea is to go Tex-Mex style with crunchy shells, cooked hamburger with taco seasoning, topped with sour cream, cheese, chunky salsa and shredded lettuce. Another way to go is Mexican taqueria style with classics like chorizo (spicy Mexican sausage), chicken (pollo) and steak. These tacos are served simple with a lime wedge, chopped onions, red or green salsa and cilantro. Diced avocado makes a nice addition. Then there are the upscale tacos made with lobster, duck and sushi-grade tuna, which one might see at restaurants with dishes cooked by celebrity chef Rick Bayless, winner of Top Chef Master. A cabbage-and-corn salad with a citrus dressing compliments a taco meal, or one could simply have more tacos. Each of these recipes works with crunchy corn, soft white, yellow, blue corn or wheat tortillas. You can use store-bought tortillas or you can make your own with masa harina (fine corn flour) and a tortilla press. Make one kind of the taco filling listed below, or prepare a few for a variety. Have fun with the fillings and toppings. Fish tacos have become popular with use of all sorts of fish like salmon, and white fish like pollack, cod or halibut. Fish can be lightly coated in flour and fried or sautéed. Pastrami tacos have also become a popular offering at taco food trucks. For a vegetarian option, substitute pinto or black beans for these recipes.
Tex-Mex beef tacos1 pound of lean ground beef 1 packet of taco seasoning 1 white onion diced 1 can of pinto beans (optional) 1 jar of thick tomato salsa ¼ cup of sour cream 1-2 limes cut in wedges 1 cup of shredded cheddar or jack cheese 1 cup of shredded lettuce 6-8 crunchy taco shells Heat the ground beef in a large skillet until brown. Add the spice mix and a quarter cup of water and cook until the water reduces, about 10 minutes. Add the ground beef mixture to the taco shell and top with any and all of the toppings. Squeeze some lime juice on top.
Taqueria styleEach of these taco for this style are served with chopped cilantro, raw diced onions, salsa and a lime wedge. Recommended: Frontera Brand green tomatillo salsa and red salsa chipotle with roasted tomatillo.
Chicken Tacos1 cup of cooked, shredded chicken 2 cloves of garlic, chopped 2 tomatoes, diced Juice of one lime ½ teaspoon of chili powder 1 tablespoon of peanut oil or olive oil 10-15 taco shells Heat the oil in a pan. Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds. Add the chicken, chili powder and lime juice and stir. Simmer until the mixture is warm. Serve one-to-two tablespoons of filling per soft wheat or corn tortilla and top with some onion, cilantro, lime juice and salsa.
Shrimp variationSubstitute 8-12 ounces of peeled and deveined shrimp. Then chop into a medium dice. Cook the shrimp just until they turn pink.
Chorizo1 pound of ground chorizo sausage 1 medium onion, diced 1 clove of garlic In a pan, heat the sausage on medium high until the fat starts to render out, about five minutes. Add the onion and cook for five minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another 30 seconds. Take off the heat and serve.
Steak or pork1 pound of sirloin, top round or pork loin 1 tablespoon oil for cooking
Marinade½ cup of diced pineapple Juice of one lime 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 cloves of garlic minced 1 tablespoon of chipotle chili sauce Salt and pepper to taste Place the steak in a glass container. Combine the marinade ingredients. Spread them over the steak. Cover the container with plastic and marinate for two hours in the refrigerator. Remove the marinade from the meat and discard. Dice the steak into small cubes. Heat the oil in a pan, and brown the cubes.
Citrus cabbage slaw½ small cabbage, shredded (can use both green and purple cabbage) 1 cup corn kernels ½ cup fresh-squeezed orange juice 1 jalapeno, seeded and chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon of honey (optional) Salt and black pepper to taste Mix all of the ingredients and let sit for 30 minutes to blend the flavors. Serve on the side with tacos.
A MAIZE-AND-BLUE BUFFET
BRAIN STEINGBERG WASHTENAW VOICE
BRAIN STEINGBERG WASHTENAW VOICE
BRAIN STEINGBERG WASHTENAW VOICE
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